Harry Lester and the Search for Democratic Wine

"You've just got to believe in them."

Harry Lester is someone who straddles worlds: he is a Londoner who has built a life for himself and his family in France; he is a chef and restaurateur but also a natural wine importer and the buyer of wines for Le Saint Eutrope, his own restaurant in Clermont-Ferrand, which also has a sister wine bar; and he lives in that small city part-time but also …